so here's my take on the situation:

12 mile downwinder from Bandon the Cape Blanco (floras lake). Hazardous sea's warning for rough sea's & high winds. the swell was about 7-8ft at 10 seconds, with 4-5 ft wind waves. So in all it was 11-14 ft swell once you include the wind waves.
So we start off feeling really good, the waves we're perfect rollers that you could ride in for a long ways. Then about 4 miles down we ran into the mouth of new river. So We rode into the river, played around with the rapids,...rode right past a group of about 5-7 seals that looked to be playing, They all stared as i rode by then one barks and they all flee! ( i'm thinkin great, im gonna get attacked by a group of seals )
We rode back out to the waves and started off on our trek,....which suddenly turned VERY serious! The beach was no longer nice and wide, it turned into a short & steep beach with waves not breaking until they hit the sand. "no Problem" i say to myself, I'll just stay out here where is "safe". The problem was that the sea was getting a LOT more hazardous as we got closer to Cape blanco. (for those who dont know, blanco is the western most point of the lower 48)
So now the winds have picked up to 40+ knts, the swell turned into 15-20 ft rollers literally the size of houses. Not only that, but they dont break until they hit the beach!!! which is a very dangerous place to be. So i'm riding up and down these big as waves, doing my best to try and outrun them before they get to steep and start to barrel (on the beach). I'm getting a lil scared now,...I see the wave in front of the one i'm on start to barrel,....a big enough barrel to drive a car thru...now i realise that its MY wave barreling so i sent the kite thru a loop and took off like a rocket, narrowly missing being swallowed up, and only about 5 ft from running aground in the sand. There was NO safe place to be (execpt maybe off the water )
So As i'm riding up a 20 ft face, and down the backside i see a light out about 3-4 miles....then again, only this time i see it....It a friggin boat...getting tossed like a rag doll. Glad im not the only crazy F*)@!er out here. After narrowly missing these huge breaks for the 3-4 miles i finally see the sand cliffs that tell me its time to get out...but where? if i get near the beach its gonna be inmenent doom. I'm thinking about it & how to get in and did'nt realize the wave i'm on is getting steep, steeper, now its barreling!!!,....i got hit with the break water and it felt like being thrown into the spin cycle of a washing machine. I would have never been able to detect what way is up if it wasnt for my kite. Which in turn pretty much pulled me out of the frothing mix of water & bubbles. by the time i had a chance to get my bearings, i'm on the beach looking at a wave 10 ft above my head come crashing down on me!....I actually said "oh shit" just moments before getting taken out.
But this time i got put further up the beach and was able to grab my board and make a run for it. I'M SAFE ...i kept telling myself...I'm Safe.